Back then, on a regular normal day, home cooked food was mostly a combination of traditional assorted vegetables, dhal, salad, raita, rice, chappati, papad, pickle, sweet dish and a home-prepared drink. Non-veg would include meat/fish. It was a complete healthy meal of different flavours. Thali is what we know it as in India
But this full course meal is common all over the world. A traditional multi-course dinner in Japan is called Kaiseki which is analogous to Western haute cuisine. Combinations of cheese with variety of Olives are served as platters
The multi course meals is all about contrast of flavours and an accumulation of different components — it includes proteins, grains, legumes, vegetables and meat It is also all about the collection of skills and technique used in such preparation that makes it so interesting
Sadly, the concept of thali has reduced in many homes with the inclusion of foreign cuisine and rise of diet conscious people who just stick to no oil, no fries, no spices, no sweets. The food habits have changed to eating small meals every two hours. Although full course meals are served on special occasions and are enjoyed by everybody, but, it all depends on elders of the family on how they can drift away the family members from easy meals that can be prepared in minutes.
Dhani and Naina Goregaonkar serve really interesting thalis on their menu.
Dhani Goregaonkar (of The Paisley Experience fame) has her roots in Alibaug through several generations. Her great grandfather N.K Mhatre (or Anna, as fondly addressed in anecdotes) was a pioneering individual in the poultry industry. She never had a chance to meet him, but his legacy, his evergreen reputation, has had her impressed even as a kid. When she started a business along with her Mom Naina Goregaonkar, a little part of her strive to be like him, in every step. Dhani is at present pursuing her studies at IHM, in Dadar. During this pandemic, she has been very active in cooking(along with her Mom) and delivers food across Mumbai city during week-ends.
“My love for food, I think, is hereditary. I haven’t come across a single family member who isn’t passionate about food, be it cooking or eating. Growing up, I’d watch my Neeya (grandmom ) and even mom prepare everyday food, but it wasn’t really everyday food. When cooking for a family, as obsessed with food as ours, everyday food just doesn’t cut it. The process of cooking fascinated me. It’s like chemistry, but without the equations that I don’t understand to this day.”
Dhani specialises in serving traditional food, native to the Pachkalshis of Mumbai and Alibaug. The SKP (Somvanshi Kshatriya Pathare), also referred to as Pachkalshis, share links of history and cuisine with the Pathare Prabhus, although there is some difference in their use of spices and cooking techniques.
“I simply cannot imagine coming to Alibaug and eating any other cuisine. My vacations in Alibaug were made of playing out in the sun, climbing trees and eating Kalwan or fried fish prepared from the catch the Kolin brought in that day, of course with a side of rice. And this is the nostalgia and experience our menu brings to you.” She says with confidence when she talks about her traditional cooking techniques.
Naina and Dhani Goregoankar (the mother-daughter duo) see Paisley Experience, in the future as an organisation that gives back as much as it gets from its surroundings; a larger, sustainable business that employs more locals and supports and promotes the local suppliers of Alibaug.
They are happy to share their traditional recipe Pinapple Curry (Anansaachi Aamti)
1. Heat 2 tbsp ghee.
2. Tamper 1tsp cumin seeds, 7/8 curry leaves and slit 4/5 green chillies.
3. Add 2 medium chopped onions and sauté till translucent.
4. Add fresh pineapple (chopped in triangles).
5. Add 1 cup jaggery and half cup water.
6. Cover it for 5 mins to tenderise the pineapple.
7. Now grind the grated 2 tbsp coconut and 2tbsp rice flour into a fine a paste.
8. Add ½ tsp turmeric powder, 2/3 tsp pachkalshi special masala, 1tsp coriander-cumin seeds powder and the coconut paste.
9. Add another cup of water and stir continuously.
10. Add 1 ½ cups coconut milk and season it with salt.
11. Squeeze the juice of a whole lemon.
12. Garnish it with coriander leaves.
13. Enjoy the hot aamti with roti or rice.
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